Let me just say, Borneo is probably the coolest place ever. We've had such a blast here; it's crazy to think we're flying out so soon! Have to talk about Sukau Rainforest Lodge....
So after we visited the orangutans, in the wild, no cages, no barriers, we were whisked away by speedboat two hours south to Sukau, where we got to our lodge. It's called Sukau Rainforest Lodge, an eco-lodge deep in the rain forest. This is the place. Our guide, Wan, was sure to tell us that this lodge was NOT a hotel and definitely NOT a resort. No air-con, many mosquitoes, all kinds of bugs. I was a little worried. But when we showed up, we were thrilled to find an absolutely beautiful Borneo longhouse-style lodge right on the edge of the river. The atmosphere was very relaxing, with the main area open to the rain forest, no walls. They even provided us with sarongs to wear to dinner, which was really nice.
We spent the next two days going on river cruises and a jungle trek in search of wild animals, which we saw plenty of. The river cruise was us six on the tour plus Wan, our guide. We went up and down the river, and took a million pictures of long-tailed macaques and the interesting proboscis monkey. We saw SO many of those, and apparently they only live in Borneo. There were also lots of colorful and interesting birds, egrets, storks, eagles, hornbills, and kingfishers of all sorts. It was SO incredibly cool to see these animals in the wild, I couldn't believe it.
The trek was fun, but a little more nerve-racking because we were brushing leeches off each other the whole time, and making sure our leech-proof socks (provided by the lodge) were staying up. Wan showed us lots of plants used by the indigenous people for all kinds of things.
We also went on two night river cruises, which were an entirely different story. Being on a rickety little boat in the pitch dark with a spotlight felt kind of like the beginning of the pirates of the carribbean ride, except if we fell out we'd probably be eaten by crocodiles. We saw so many awesome animals those nights. Our guide, Marvin, shone a spotlight all around the banks, looking for the reflection of the animals' eyes. I was incredulous at first, but Marvin delivered. Right away we spotted a kingfisher, and got right up close to it, because apparently they're blind at night, and can't see the light or us at all. We saw a civet cat climbing a tree, and three of the largest species of kingfisher. They were huge and so colorful. Then we saw an owl, a purple heron, and a baby crocodile.
The second night cruise was even more exciting. We saw a big kingfisher and a baby crocodile again, then another civet cat, a couple of owls, and then, the most exciting, we saw TWO western tarsiers! Marvin said he'd only ever seen four of these little guys in eight years before that night. He was seriously excited about it, and so were we. I got a couple of grainy pictures of them. Not great but proof that they were there!
Now we're back in KK after a six-hour bus ride, wishing we were back at the rain forest lodge. We were sad to not see any elephants like some of the other people staying at the lodge had the week before, but those tarsiers made up for it, I think. If I could only come back to one place from this trip so far, I'd go back there definitely.
Tuesday, November 10, 2009
From the Philippines to Borneo
So we leavc Boracay and take an extremely concerning ferry boat ride back to the island of Mindoro (the port town of Roxas). We are headed for Sabang beach in the north of the island, but first must make it across the tempermental sea. Aboard the ship we rock back and forth and side to side over the choppy whitecapped waves underneath. The boat literally leaves the surface of the water and crashes back down, sending giant bursts of white water up to the top of the ship. Perhaps it's my inexperience in the nautical arena, but I don't think this is a good thing. However, as you've probably guessed, we survived.
We make our way up to Sabang via very mini-van and jeepney. A nice lady named Puri takes us to a great little cottage that sits just a few feet from the lagoon's edge. It's a bit rough inside, but there's a wonderful patio in front where Mel and I enjoyed some drinks and song. (I brought the mini-guitar hoping for this kind of scenario.) The "touts" are quite prevalent and offer us various goods and services, but they always seemed to meet our declines with a "bahala na" sort of attitude. Quiet in the day here, but a bit scandelous at night with the strip clubs ( or "discos"), many bars, foreigner-seeking Filipino women....and ladyboys.
Off after a couple nights in this very interesting town and bound for Borneo. We meet Ronald Go, our trusted taxi driver in Batangas who escorts us back to the International airport in Manila. We didn't find him right away and found the local police a bit sketchy, what with the knife-sharpening friend and the police allowing us to use their phone if we paid a price that was "up to us." Not all fun and games in the Philippines. But, we arrive to the airport safely and are soon airborn toward Malaysia.
Safely landed, we deboard in both Mel's and mine first Islamic country. We didn't know quite what to expect of Kota Kinabahlu, the capital of the western state of Sabah. Met a German who met two Malaysian ladies who took us into town for a few Ringgit each (Ringgit being the currency here.) Stay at the Hotel Holiday, a nice bare necessities type place in the city center. We walk around and immediately notice the cultural diversity of this country. There are men in tunics, women in burkas, Chinese and Arabic signs, Indian restaurants, Filipino influences and so much more. The people are an eclectic mix and seem to be all smiles when you exchange a glance. We are greeted by quite a few "hellos" and "where are you froms", as well as, many waves from the locals. The city is also surprisingly well developed. The Malaysian economy, although apparantly not doing very well at the moment, is clearly superior to the Philippines. It reminds us a lot of Taipei with nicer buildings, fully-paved roads and artistic landscaping.
We start off the following day for Sandakan, a city in the Northeast part of Sabah where we are to begin our tour to Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Center and cruise through rain forest along the Kinabatangan river, near the town of Sukau. In Sandakan we stroll the streets and take in the grittier, but possibly even friendlier, side of Sabah. It's a dusty little town center by the port and the smiles and waves are quite frequent. And the cultural salad is evident on every street corner. We had a nice dinner on the waterfront and headed to bed, early 740 rise the next day.
Morning came and we met our guide Mirwan who began the day by guiding us through a very interesting market outside of the hotel and to the van. He is a great guy, very laid back, but enthusiastic about his country. We also met our tour-mates Mark and Mel, Jocelyn and Di. All great folks, indeed. Mirwan or 'Wan' gave us the lowdown on the events of the day and some background about the Sepilok center.
Sepilok finds and rescues orphaned orangutans (which means 'people of the forest' in Malay) and rehabilitates/reintroduces them into the wild. It is a gradual process that takes years, but it is working to restore the numbers of orangutans in the wild. The deforesting through logging and palm-oil plantations has widdled down the population to endangered and left many orphaned. Sepilok, working with the government to help educate the country's residents, has done amazing things. The tour visits help bring much needed funds and increase awareness. Plus it's pretty radical for us, too.
Anyway, you walk along a boardwalk through the forest and find an open area that resembles a large house deck in the middle of the forest. Surrounding are several platforms, ropes and wild rainforest. No cages. No bars. Soon we spot a few of these incredible creatures swinging aptly by hands and feet. They seem so comfortable swinging from branch to branch. With incredible luck, an alpha male comes to the platform and gives everyone a rare treat. He is enormous and looks more like a gorilla than an orangutan. The crowd is stunned. A few pig-tailed macaques make their entrance, but don't get much from the big daddy. Wan tells us there would be more, but the other males don't dare come round when poppa is there.
Beautiful creatures.
We make our way up to Sabang via very mini-van and jeepney. A nice lady named Puri takes us to a great little cottage that sits just a few feet from the lagoon's edge. It's a bit rough inside, but there's a wonderful patio in front where Mel and I enjoyed some drinks and song. (I brought the mini-guitar hoping for this kind of scenario.) The "touts" are quite prevalent and offer us various goods and services, but they always seemed to meet our declines with a "bahala na" sort of attitude. Quiet in the day here, but a bit scandelous at night with the strip clubs ( or "discos"), many bars, foreigner-seeking Filipino women....and ladyboys.
Off after a couple nights in this very interesting town and bound for Borneo. We meet Ronald Go, our trusted taxi driver in Batangas who escorts us back to the International airport in Manila. We didn't find him right away and found the local police a bit sketchy, what with the knife-sharpening friend and the police allowing us to use their phone if we paid a price that was "up to us." Not all fun and games in the Philippines. But, we arrive to the airport safely and are soon airborn toward Malaysia.
Safely landed, we deboard in both Mel's and mine first Islamic country. We didn't know quite what to expect of Kota Kinabahlu, the capital of the western state of Sabah. Met a German who met two Malaysian ladies who took us into town for a few Ringgit each (Ringgit being the currency here.) Stay at the Hotel Holiday, a nice bare necessities type place in the city center. We walk around and immediately notice the cultural diversity of this country. There are men in tunics, women in burkas, Chinese and Arabic signs, Indian restaurants, Filipino influences and so much more. The people are an eclectic mix and seem to be all smiles when you exchange a glance. We are greeted by quite a few "hellos" and "where are you froms", as well as, many waves from the locals. The city is also surprisingly well developed. The Malaysian economy, although apparantly not doing very well at the moment, is clearly superior to the Philippines. It reminds us a lot of Taipei with nicer buildings, fully-paved roads and artistic landscaping.
We start off the following day for Sandakan, a city in the Northeast part of Sabah where we are to begin our tour to Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Center and cruise through rain forest along the Kinabatangan river, near the town of Sukau. In Sandakan we stroll the streets and take in the grittier, but possibly even friendlier, side of Sabah. It's a dusty little town center by the port and the smiles and waves are quite frequent. And the cultural salad is evident on every street corner. We had a nice dinner on the waterfront and headed to bed, early 740 rise the next day.
Morning came and we met our guide Mirwan who began the day by guiding us through a very interesting market outside of the hotel and to the van. He is a great guy, very laid back, but enthusiastic about his country. We also met our tour-mates Mark and Mel, Jocelyn and Di. All great folks, indeed. Mirwan or 'Wan' gave us the lowdown on the events of the day and some background about the Sepilok center.
Sepilok finds and rescues orphaned orangutans (which means 'people of the forest' in Malay) and rehabilitates/reintroduces them into the wild. It is a gradual process that takes years, but it is working to restore the numbers of orangutans in the wild. The deforesting through logging and palm-oil plantations has widdled down the population to endangered and left many orphaned. Sepilok, working with the government to help educate the country's residents, has done amazing things. The tour visits help bring much needed funds and increase awareness. Plus it's pretty radical for us, too.
Anyway, you walk along a boardwalk through the forest and find an open area that resembles a large house deck in the middle of the forest. Surrounding are several platforms, ropes and wild rainforest. No cages. No bars. Soon we spot a few of these incredible creatures swinging aptly by hands and feet. They seem so comfortable swinging from branch to branch. With incredible luck, an alpha male comes to the platform and gives everyone a rare treat. He is enormous and looks more like a gorilla than an orangutan. The crowd is stunned. A few pig-tailed macaques make their entrance, but don't get much from the big daddy. Wan tells us there would be more, but the other males don't dare come round when poppa is there.
Beautiful creatures.
Saturday, October 31, 2009
Bahala Na!
October 30th/31st- Boracay Island, Phillipines
We couldn't be happier to have arrived at our intended destination. As we walk along the beach path we are greeted by friendly faces willing to show us to their guest-house/hotel/or hostel somewhere nearby the stunning beaches on the island. We decide to stop into a place called Serge's Palace, nearby to Boat Station 3 (a bit cheaper, and closer to the port to and from Caticlan). It's a nice place with a hot shower and air conditioning. Glad to have some relief from the thick humidity that hangs in the air like a damp blanket, we decide this will work for us. Pesos are the way here, and we part with a thousand for a night stay here. Not bad at all.
With a place to ditch our exuberantly overweight packs, we quickly head out to a beachside restaurant for some much needed sustenance. Pizza and beer does the trick, although not great for our 'beach bods.' Sitting at the 'Nigi Nigi Bar' we scope out the local vendors selling necklaces, sunglasses, foot-sandal-triangles (no idea) and lots of delicious snacks. Woman walk around with baskets of fruit atop their heads. Boatmen and vendors offer sailing trips or ATV rides. Women offer various massages and henna tattoos, or corn rows! We also take notice of the many aging white men with their younger Filipino counterparts. Thoughts of sex tourism can't be helped from entering our minds. But, live and let live (Bahala Na)!
Swimming becomes very important as we take a stroll along the beautiful white sand beach, enjoying the clear blue waters of this part of the Visayan Sea rush over our feet. We change into our swimming duds and head out into the water. We continue to see the bottom even at chest level. Amazing! Easily the best beach I have ever seen (not that I'm an expert in the area or anything, but still...wow). Small white fish dart around and into our ankles. We watch and ponder their strange behavior, or maybe they are pondering ours. Swimming, sunning, swimming, Mai Tais, more swimming, sleep....and so on. Perfect opposite to the previous days activities.
Showers and new clothes and we're ready for a night out. We stroll along until we find an all-you-can-eat Mongolian Barbeque restaurant with interesting techno music bleating from the attatched dance-club. Very delicious meal, and cheap too. Afterwards we walk some more and feel the wind whipping stronger than before. We hear some good rock-n-roll coming from a slightly tucked away beach-bar called 'Charlh's Bar.' We grab a seat and watch the band playing behind the bar. Meet a great couple named Francis and Nena who live in Manilla and are on vacation due to the holiday of 'Unas.' 'Unas' is somewhat of an equivalent to Halloween. Some celebrate the passing of the dead with prayer and some celebration. These two are such wonderful people, and we pass the hours singing along with the band, talking music and drinking San Miguel (the beer of choice here). Several hours, songs and beers later we part company. Best of luck Francis and Nena! Great people.
We head back to Serge's and notice a strong wind blowing even harder than before.
The next morning is filled with the deafening sounds of strong wind and rain pounding on the roof of our hotel room. There is a typhoon slightly to the north. It will not hit Boracay too hard, it's the north on the island if Luzon that suffered so much from the last typhoon. We are hoping this one moves along quickly so no on else is hurt.
The rain clears so I stumble down the beach, with sleep still in my eyes, in search of a shake for Mel. She's been wanting one since we got here. Found Choco-peanut-banana...this will definitely do. Talk to a couple guys on the beach path, find that the wind is far less strong on the other side of the island.
Mel and I walk across the island past many deshevelled homes of the locals. It's a much different scene than the beachfront resort atmosphere of White Sand Beach. To be expected I guess. However, and this in all likelihood could be my own ignorance, the people still seem to be relaxed and living life for whatever it brings them. Bahala Na. Mel and I wonder what the impression is of the foreigners to the locals. Is our presence here liked? Despised? Not thought much about? We wonder and we wander. I guess we mostly just reflect on the knowledge that we are so lucky in so many ways. It may not always be so, but....Bahala Na.
We couldn't be happier to have arrived at our intended destination. As we walk along the beach path we are greeted by friendly faces willing to show us to their guest-house/hotel/or hostel somewhere nearby the stunning beaches on the island. We decide to stop into a place called Serge's Palace, nearby to Boat Station 3 (a bit cheaper, and closer to the port to and from Caticlan). It's a nice place with a hot shower and air conditioning. Glad to have some relief from the thick humidity that hangs in the air like a damp blanket, we decide this will work for us. Pesos are the way here, and we part with a thousand for a night stay here. Not bad at all.
With a place to ditch our exuberantly overweight packs, we quickly head out to a beachside restaurant for some much needed sustenance. Pizza and beer does the trick, although not great for our 'beach bods.' Sitting at the 'Nigi Nigi Bar' we scope out the local vendors selling necklaces, sunglasses, foot-sandal-triangles (no idea) and lots of delicious snacks. Woman walk around with baskets of fruit atop their heads. Boatmen and vendors offer sailing trips or ATV rides. Women offer various massages and henna tattoos, or corn rows! We also take notice of the many aging white men with their younger Filipino counterparts. Thoughts of sex tourism can't be helped from entering our minds. But, live and let live (Bahala Na)!
Swimming becomes very important as we take a stroll along the beautiful white sand beach, enjoying the clear blue waters of this part of the Visayan Sea rush over our feet. We change into our swimming duds and head out into the water. We continue to see the bottom even at chest level. Amazing! Easily the best beach I have ever seen (not that I'm an expert in the area or anything, but still...wow). Small white fish dart around and into our ankles. We watch and ponder their strange behavior, or maybe they are pondering ours. Swimming, sunning, swimming, Mai Tais, more swimming, sleep....and so on. Perfect opposite to the previous days activities.
Showers and new clothes and we're ready for a night out. We stroll along until we find an all-you-can-eat Mongolian Barbeque restaurant with interesting techno music bleating from the attatched dance-club. Very delicious meal, and cheap too. Afterwards we walk some more and feel the wind whipping stronger than before. We hear some good rock-n-roll coming from a slightly tucked away beach-bar called 'Charlh's Bar.' We grab a seat and watch the band playing behind the bar. Meet a great couple named Francis and Nena who live in Manilla and are on vacation due to the holiday of 'Unas.' 'Unas' is somewhat of an equivalent to Halloween. Some celebrate the passing of the dead with prayer and some celebration. These two are such wonderful people, and we pass the hours singing along with the band, talking music and drinking San Miguel (the beer of choice here). Several hours, songs and beers later we part company. Best of luck Francis and Nena! Great people.
We head back to Serge's and notice a strong wind blowing even harder than before.
The next morning is filled with the deafening sounds of strong wind and rain pounding on the roof of our hotel room. There is a typhoon slightly to the north. It will not hit Boracay too hard, it's the north on the island if Luzon that suffered so much from the last typhoon. We are hoping this one moves along quickly so no on else is hurt.
The rain clears so I stumble down the beach, with sleep still in my eyes, in search of a shake for Mel. She's been wanting one since we got here. Found Choco-peanut-banana...this will definitely do. Talk to a couple guys on the beach path, find that the wind is far less strong on the other side of the island.
Mel and I walk across the island past many deshevelled homes of the locals. It's a much different scene than the beachfront resort atmosphere of White Sand Beach. To be expected I guess. However, and this in all likelihood could be my own ignorance, the people still seem to be relaxed and living life for whatever it brings them. Bahala Na. Mel and I wonder what the impression is of the foreigners to the locals. Is our presence here liked? Despised? Not thought much about? We wonder and we wander. I guess we mostly just reflect on the knowledge that we are so lucky in so many ways. It may not always be so, but....Bahala Na.
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